Mike and I recently finished our 2nd annual, autumn backpacking excursion. We met at TN exit 451 off I-40 at the TN-NC border. This is the upper boundary of the GSMNP and crossing of the AT.Day #1 started at Big Creek Ranger Station on the Baxter Creek Trail. We ascended over 42oo' in just over 7 miles to rest at back country site #38, atop Mt. Sterling. This mountain sustained massive tree cuts during the late 1800's and early 1900's. However, the steep, rocky terrain impeded efficient tree removal by the lumber companies. As result, many areas of old growth forest still exist dating earlier than our country's independence. Massive American beech, eastern hemlocks, tuliptrees, and pines are abundant. Trail highlights include a lengthy rosebay rhododendron tunnel and thick clubmoss and fern growths. The ontogeny of the delicate green mosses and ferns continues to benefit human existence. The spores of clubmosses were once used for early ignition powder and flash for early cameras. Mosses and their relatives, the ferns, covered the earth 300 million years ago. They were integral in plant evolution by creating the first vascular tissue allowing water and nutrients to travel from the ground upward. And today as we cruise in our cars and electrify the world, we can thank the mosses and ferns as their decomposed bodies now provide our insatiable supply of oil.
We were exhausted upon reaching our camp. Fading daylight dictated further work before resting which included pumping water through our filters, gathering firewood, and climbing the lookout tower for awesome sunset views of the Smoky Mountain chain and surrounding valleys. The varying contrasts of blue and red in the mountain line and sky created a lasting memory.




An incredible vista !
Day #2 started on the Mt. Sterling Ridge Trail, elevation 5824'. This 5.5 mile trek followed the relatively level high-country ridge line. Multiple openings in the forest growth revealed the colorful lower elevations and valley floor.

The art of backpacking requires lightweight equipment and preparedness. We were expecting low temps and possibly precipitation. Even with a starting temperature at near freezing, 15 minutes on the trail with a 40 pound load will require removal of clothes layers. A stop for lunch near the trail head of the Balsam Mountain Trail resupplied the energy needed to hike an additional 6 miles to the Tricorner Knob Shelter on the AT.

I can't express the enthusiasm we shared upon finding the shelter equipped with a fireplace and a tarp covering the usually open entrance. With darkness approaching and the temperature dropping we traveled a mile down trail in search of firewood. Since the shelters are used nightly the nearby woods are void of firewood. Luckily, the water source was also at the shelter. As we ignited our fire the snow began falling.


Day #3. With 18.5 logged miles, stiff legs, frigged temps (26 degrees !), and 5 inches of snow we set off on the AT in hopes of reaching Cosby Knob shelter. Mike took the morning lead as I struggled to find a rhythm. We donned all layers including rain/snow wear and the wind was howling. The trail proved difficult as well with modest elevation climbs and a snowy path. We choose not to stop for lunch by just eating as we hiked. Our trail meals were mainly dehydrated fruits, nuts, jerky, and Cliff bars. Thanks to Jim and Wanda for the dehydrated apples! En route to our next shelter we passed Mt. Guyot at 6000'. It was very peaceful hiking in fresh snow. The trees were glistening with ice and wildlife tracks were abundant.




We reached Cosby shelter after 8.5 miles of judicious hiking just before dark and performed the usual rituals of wood and water gathering. We greeted other overnighters including two girls who were thru-hiking with just 200 miles left on their 2175 mile journey. We shared stories by the fire and filled our bellies with reconstituted dehydrated meals. My vegetable lasagna was yummy! The temperature was in the low 20's and we were basically sleeping in the open. The shelter consisted of three stones walls and an open front. Mike and I shared the upper platform and used our tent fly to serve as a wind break. I also wrapped my sleeping bag with an emergency blanket in hopes of preserving heat.
I was eager for morning sunlight since the only real way to warm up was strapping on the backpack and hitting the trail. We left before 8am on the AT with 8.5 miles separating us from our vehicles at Big Creek. We climbed several hundred feet to summit Mt. Cammerer and snapped amazing photos. The snow and ice laced branches framed the colorful valley which the snow spared.



We then began the steep downhill hike of over 4000'. This proved challenging as different muscle groups engaged. The snow became thin until only the forest floor was covered with the colors of fall. We reached our vehicles and headed to the nearby stream for feet soaking and face splashing. Refreshing and bone chilling cold, the water energized our souls! This was a great trip and we look forward to next year's hike. Thanks for the 32-mile journey, Mike!

Posted by Jen&Brad at 10:22 AM