Kauai beach swimming
It was a long beach, the waves broke even but far enough back to allow for a long enough ride. We were on the west side of the island. I was out in my shorts just playing in the waves. There were several surfers gathered in clumps where the waves were breaking just a little further out I tried to stay out of there way. There were several Hawaiian natives around me 10-14 year olds, one on a boogie board, one on a short surf board and the other just swimming. I am always intimidated by surfers when I am in the water and being around young locals makes me feel safe. Yes it is hard to be intimidated by 10 year olds. They called and geared each other. “ You gonna just on sit on that one? Here’s one shit paddle, paddle paddle, …… damm you slow, you couldn’t catch a turd in a bucket.” Evidently the one on the surf board was not the most experienced. A high school girl in a bikini paddles by on her short board over to an empty stretch of water. “ Give me that board, you suck. Your turn is over. “ “Ok, Ok just wait” the boy tears off the Velcro leash and relieves himself the burden of his surfboard. “ Now where is he going?” a third boy asks as the new surf board rider makes a beeline over to the bikini girl. If they don’t know yet they soon will. She ignores and steers clear of him. He returns empty handed. He is the oldest and his younger brother was the one who started on the short board.
I look back to the beach, big heavy thunder head clouds seem to be moving in. It is hard to read the weather here. Parts of this small island are the wettest spots on earth. Other parts grow cactus. Melissa is lying on a blanket reading. She looks content. Her presence, her countenance makes me happy. A long boarded with dreads down to his mid back weaves very skillfully in and out of the wave , til the waves end where he curves toward the ocean and allows himself to drop butt first into the water. The movements are very graceful, he is very good. The water is very comfortable, it has a warmth, is an embrace from an old friend, the softness of a feather bed. The sun is going down, the rain clouds are closing in. The rain will be here soon and Melissa and I have not set up camp. It gets darker surfers start to head in. I want to wait til the rain. Something about swimming in the rain calls to me. The first drops fall. I catch the next wave in. The rain is light Melissa and I head for the car, shake the sand off our clothes and drive toward camp.
It was a long beach, the waves broke even but far enough back to allow for a long enough ride. We were on the west side of the island. I was out in my shorts just playing in the waves. There were several surfers gathered in clumps where the waves were breaking just a little further out I tried to stay out of there way. There were several Hawaiian natives around me 10-14 year olds, one on a boogie board, one on a short surf board and the other just swimming. I am always intimidated by surfers when I am in the water and being around young locals makes me feel safe. Yes it is hard to be intimidated by 10 year olds. They called and geared each other. “ You gonna just on sit on that one? Here’s one shit paddle, paddle paddle, …… damm you slow, you couldn’t catch a turd in a bucket.” Evidently the one on the surf board was not the most experienced. A high school girl in a bikini paddles by on her short board over to an empty stretch of water. “ Give me that board, you suck. Your turn is over. “ “Ok, Ok just wait” the boy tears off the Velcro leash and relieves himself the burden of his surfboard. “ Now where is he going?” a third boy asks as the new surf board rider makes a beeline over to the bikini girl. If they don’t know yet they soon will. She ignores and steers clear of him. He returns empty handed. He is the oldest and his younger brother was the one who started on the short board.
I look back to the beach, big heavy thunder head clouds seem to be moving in. It is hard to read the weather here. Parts of this small island are the wettest spots on earth. Other parts grow cactus. Melissa is lying on a blanket reading. She looks content. Her presence, her countenance makes me happy. A long boarded with dreads down to his mid back weaves very skillfully in and out of the wave , til the waves end where he curves toward the ocean and allows himself to drop butt first into the water. The movements are very graceful, he is very good. The water is very comfortable, it has a warmth, is an embrace from an old friend, the softness of a feather bed. The sun is going down, the rain clouds are closing in. The rain will be here soon and Melissa and I have not set up camp. It gets darker surfers start to head in. I want to wait til the rain. Something about swimming in the rain calls to me. The first drops fall. I catch the next wave in. The rain is light Melissa and I head for the car, shake the sand off our clothes and drive toward camp.
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